I am Yu Yamamoto from the TAILORS WORLD editorial team.
Handling fabrics daily introduces various terms. Let’s revisit the fundamental basics about fabrics.
目次
Fabric Weight
Indicates the weight per unit area for woven or knit fabrics, commonly expressed in grams per square meter (g/m²) or grams per meter (g/m). Smaller values result in lighter, thinner fabrics, while larger values lead to heavier fabrics.
Fabric Width
Refers to the width of the fabric. For Western clothing, there are single-width (approx. 71cm), double-width (approx. 142cm), yard-width (approx. 91-92cm), and wide-width (approx. 110cm) standards. Kimono fabrics have different width standards: small-width (approx. 36cm), medium-width (approx. 45cm), and large-width (approx. 72cm).
Effective Width
The usable width of the fabric, as indicated in sample books. It may differ slightly from the actual fabric width due to production variations.
Lengthwise and Crosswise Grain
Fabrics have directions. Lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvage (ear) of the fabric, and crosswise grain runs perpendicular to it. The 45° line is called the bias grain.
Selvage
The edges of woven or knit fabrics. Selvages may feature brand names, dye colors, or unique patterns.
Single Yarn and Double Yarn
Single yarn refers to a single thread, while double yarn is created by twisting two single yarns together. A notation like 60/2 means it’s a double yarn of size 60.
Prewash and Postwash
Prewashing involves dyeing yarn before weaving or knitting, providing even color. Postwashing dyes the fabric after production, allowing for cost-effective mass production but with potential color fading.
Irregular Winding
Indicates variations in the length of fabric rolls, often occurring due to shrinking during dyeing or finishing processes.
In Conclusion
This blog explores essential fabric terminology, providing a deeper understanding of fabrics by knowing the basics.
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After 2 years of training at a major order-made suit store in Japan, I started my career in apparel materials and fabrics.
I’m especially good at suits and coats.